Beers Win !

                                                            Beers Win !


            1. The BJCP Style Guidelines are guidelines not specifications. Take those words at face value, or their plain meaning. Guidelines are meant to describe general characteristics of the most common examples, and serve as an aid for judging; they are not meant to be rigorously-applied specifications that are used to punish slightly unusual examples.

            They are suggestions, not hard limits. Allow for some flexibility in judging so that well-crafted examples can be rewarded. The guidelines are written in detail to facilitate the process of the structured evaluation of beer as practiced in homebrewing competitions; don’t take each individual statement in a style description as a reason to disqualify a beer.

            Remember  entering one of your favorite drinking homebrews then get a low scoresheet just to see you made an incredible beer yet told to enter it in another category to win.

            Does this judge practice all of the above?

            Best regards,


Blonde Ale


Matching Hops Within Style

     Blonde Ale

There are many factors involved in home brewing beer such as the amount and type of malt, hops, water, temperature, fermentation temperatures and of course yeast.  When combined properly, the true characteristics and flavor will be displayed in that special brew.

Previously we worked on recipes for a SMASH (Single Malt Single Hop) beer to identify the flavor profile using one hop variety in the kettle.  Hop listings specify which ones are better suited for lagers while others would work best in ales.  Often tradition dictates their use as seen in old world versions and presently in Craft Beer production.

Since hops add bitterness, flavor and aroma in varying degrees it would seem reasonable to choose the proper ones.  These attributes are derived from compounds found in the hop cone Alpha and Beta acid oils.  Strength and quantity can vary.

Bitterness is achieved by controlled boiling to manipulate the three major contributors Cohumulone ( “unpleasant” )  Myrcene ( floral and citrus and pine Oh My ) and Humulene ( herbal or spicy am I ) levels that add to flavor and aroma.  For individual hops check out recent posts published by the distributor and growers.  Two other hop oils, caryophyllene and farnesene are also present in smaller percentages and could have an influence.


Pride and bragging rights have been formed as expert brewers combined hops of different strains to manage bitterness and style profiles. Huge collaborations produced so many unique blends that offer inspiration to anyone that seeks to brew.


Developing a system that successfully combines carefully chosen hops forming a fine balanced Blonde Ale always comes from experimenting and recording the recipes.  Mix and match hops or do a solo.

So many new hops are becoming available that have experimental numbers and names that need to be checked out.

Choosing hop combinations for any style of beer involves going to the chart and matching percentages value. Since Cohumulone is perceived by many brewers to impart an “unpleasant” bitterness to beer selecting and matching  ones with low levels would work well in a blonde ale.  Keep in mind that the use of high Cohumulone level hops  could bump up your Blonde to the likes of a  Pale Ale or IPA.

Pair up hops that match Cohumulone levels to avoid clashing aspects ruining an otherwise well made beer.



Blonde Ale Hops – values shown as median and generally accepted

Variety                Usage         Avg. %  Cohumulone   Myrcene    Humulene

Cascade               Dual Purpose                36                        53               13

First Gold             Dual Purpose                33                        28               22

Liberty                 Aroma                           27                        30               37

Magnum             Bittering                        26                        33               37

Northdown         Dual Purpose                28                        26               45

Nugget                Dual Purpose                27                        56               17

Santiam               Aroma                           23                        32               25

Sterling                Dual Purpose                25                        46               21

Strisselspalt         Aroma                           23                        26               21

Tettnanger (US)  Dual Purpose                23                        22               21

Ultra                    Aroma                           30                        30               34

Willamette          Aroma                           33                        50               25

Saaz  Cz             Aroma                         26                        23              43

The beer below scored a 37 in a BJCP Sanctioned Competition taking 2nd Place


       Blonde Ale              5 Gallon


10 #   2-Row malt

4 oz.  Caramel malt 30 °L

.5 oz.  German Magnum hops pellets            11.9 % AA

1 oz.  Czech Saaz pellets                               3.0 % AA

Mash    4 G. water at 164 °F in tun add grains to 155°F 60 min.

2 G. water 170 °F stir set 5 min.

Sparge   4 G. 170 °F water

Boil     60 min.

Hops  First addition          .5 oz.      Magnum                  @ 15 min.

Second                   1 oz.      Saaz                         @   end

O.G.  1.050               4 SRM           20  IBU’s         .4  BU:GU

Yeast   WLP008 East Coast Ale

Fermentation   65- 68 °F



Fridge _________________________________________________

Keg_______________________________________FG 1.008 

Notes  ______________________________________________________­­­­­­


5.5 % ABV

­­­­­­­ 79 % Efficiency  29 ppg

Apparent Attenuation   83 %


From Here to There

New to Reddit so Hello and thank you for the welcome to  r/Homebrewing

Site looks great and seems easy to navigate.

Very interesting ideas from

Very interesting people

I’m looking forward to participate in appreciation to all those out there that share this common interest with so much vigor creating a drive to always supersede our next batch of beer.

CaptMike NJ


Taste – Bitter to Sweet- Back to Bitter and How We Can Change It With Beer

In the olden days all ate plants that were bland, tasty, sweet and/or bitter
Grazing, gathering or dispatching whatever just to survive
Salt was at a premium and used for the palate and health
Societies relied on what was around, so that’s what you were stuck with
Natural nutrition kept people alive naturally
The taste of foods usually included bitterness, so people were used to it
Consuming bitters created balanced bodies because it stimulates the digestive fluids to flow, thus aiding in digestion
Currently our diets are tuned to the addition of lots of sweets, carbs and salt
Overloaded quickly
Almost to an OD
Switch back people and try to avoid a sugary attack
Counter those urges and seek out highly hopped bitter beers
Get back to the bitter taste, and possibly save your life
That being said, there is a growing trend that feels a really flavorful hoppy bitter beer might be the best this age has to offer in terms of how fit we stay.

Brew A Belgium Quad

Summer is still in full swing and that means brewing a beer that loves the warm weather. Belgium ales and Saisons come to mind as the temperature rises.
Brewing these ales are a specialty and quite a treat to the palate that has been used to running on Blonde, Pales, Amber and Stout. Why not try to go wild and turn out a fantastic beer that everyone will enjoy?
At Wildcat Homebrew we will duplicate the same recipe as last year in our effort to maintain a collection of Quads that can be sampled and compared as they age in our cellar. It will be very interesting to see how each batch matures. Our goal is to save at least one bottle to the five year mark and celebrate the unique character that evolves to tickle the senses.
There’s still time left in the season, so go for it and create that masterpiece homebrew. This recipe produces a dark strong ale that is complex and rich in flavors, yet remains smooth and fruity. Distinctive and engaging this beer will devise a vision into a sumptuous experience that can linger on for years.

Belgium Quad/ Plums
All-grain bumped 5 Gal. yield 11% ABV
9 # Belgium Pale malt
8.5 # German Munich malt
.5 # Special B
.25 # Chocolate malt 350L
1 # Bavarian Wheat DME
1 # Adjunct – Belgian Candi Syrup (Dark)
1.6 # Plums (Purple)
• Bittering Hops Styrian Golding pellets
• Finishing Hops Saaz pellets
• Adjust schedule to get 22 IBU’s
Additives 1 TBS. pH stabilizer – .5 tsp. CaCl to mash using hard water
1 tsp. Irish Moss – 1 tsp. yeast nutrient to boil
Mash 6 Gal. water at 168° F in tun add grains
75 min. rest to 153° F
2 Gal. boiling water mash – out at 167° F 5 min.
Sparge continuous 3 Gal. 168° F water collect ~ 7.5 Gal.
Boil 90 min. total last 20 min. add DME
Hops three additions and one @ end of boil
O.G. 1.090 22.5 Plato SRM N/A ~ 22 IBU’s
Rest 30 min. – chill to fermenter – oxygenate well then Pitch yeast
15 sec. O2 in 1 hour
Yeast 4 XL 1762 Belgium Abbey II or appropriate yeast starter

Maintain 72°F during ferment

Fermentation Activity should be evident in about 4 hours with full ferment in 12 hours ___________________________________________

Belgium candi sugar and plums – When primary dies down in 3 days use 2 Qts. water dissolving candi syrup – bring to boil – add macerated fresh pitted plums – return to boil – shut off – rest 20 min. – cool in ice water bath – add to primary fermenter via funnel/tubing to avoid splashing

Calculations for additional sugar ( Approximate ):
1.6 lb. Plums ~ 72 g. or 1.032/5G= .0064
1 lb. Dark candi sugar 1.032/5G= .0064
.0128 + O.G 1.090     Adjusted O.G. 1.103
Rack to Secondary in 7 to 10 days S.G. 1.0___   around 1.022

Temp ____ °F
Put in fridge “ crash your Quad “ for about 10 weeks to age then keg or
Bottlle Use 4.5 oz. corn sugar/WL530 Abbey Ale yeast in bottling bucket- could use carbonation drops 1 for 375 ml 2 for a 750 ml

Yields 12 750 ml. and 28 375 ml. cage and cork bottles – label
Notes ________________________________________________

Brew by Capt Mike – Scott

Esteem of the Beer World

Beer appreciation can be described as an empathy that exists
between the ever growing numbers of craft brew enthusiasts.  Picture
this as a sudsy world of serendipity where we hold an apparent
aptitude for making accidental fortunate discoveries with strangers
all in the pursuit of a satisfying goblet or pint.

With that in mind, daily excursions and even planned vacations
become centered around the hub of unbeknownst locales offering
what we hope will be the finest nectar of the gods accompanied
by the quaint ambiance we seek to satiate the mind and palate.

The chase is on as people head out all over the place.  We go
upstate, downstate, across the state, to the tri-state, by the river,
over the river, to town, through the woods, everywhere all in a
challenge to be rewarded with the best experience of imbibing
and colloquy.

We search as we stroll through the forest of tap handles,
sometimes with more than 40 species containing a few previously
unknown.  The salient ones catch our early attention, but are they
worthy?  Decision time is near and sometimes the person sitting
next to you has a tip on the best pour.  Say Hi and a random
conversation will follow about where we live, what beers are
there or what’s great around here.  Inquire as to what they like and
why?  The sense of discovery driven by knowledge and experience
will catapult you on a mission unlike any other.  A respect for
beer and the people that create it will develop.

We have to boldly go where we haven’t gone before.
Somehow through the years our society has lost the desire to
explore.  When I was a child I wanted to be a scientist probably
because in the 1950’s and 60’s we were looking at the sky and
in awe of how people will be visiting space and someday living
there.  It helped create a vision of limitless expanse where each one
of us could grab a bit and mold it into our lives.  Things changed.
The wars and economy distracted us and reversed our direction,
suddenly there was no future, just now.  Recently, talk of the end of
the world further eroded any hope that we could instill in our
youth a sense that there is more to life.

Felicity is within our reach.

Approach every day like you are building a bridge over a huge
frontier.  Piece by piece the project gets done.  And when
it’s complete we have more of the universe to navigate through by
using our new route.

Time is precious and short and that’s why a little inspiration
can go a long way.  Get out there and explore the vast array of
breweries and the different styles they offer.

Better yet, get some people together and try some
homebrewing so when you find a style you like you could make
your own.  Think of it as “the sky’s the limit.”

It’s been said “Beer can change the world, I’m not sure how but it will.”

Northdown Blond Beer (all grain) 5 gal. yield

We used a single malt/ single hop recipe to make it easier to identify the flavors associated with the individual ingredients.  Our goal with these blond beers is to highlight a different hop using the same malt, thereby showcasing the hops contribution.  Past blond beers using  Sterling, Magnum, and Aurora hops all showed to have a profound affect on the beer ranging from a fine subtle to a sharp crisp bite.  Hop schedules were calculated to yield similar or higher  IBU’s.  This is fun brewing since the beers are unlike anything available commercially.

10 #    Maris Otter malt
2 oz.   Northdown Hops pellets   5 % AA

Additives  1 Tbs. pH stabilizer – 1 tsp. Gypsum to mash
1  tsp. Yeast nutrient – 1 tsp. Irish Moss to boil
Mash  3 Gal. 42 oz.  water @ 164F in tun add grains to153 F
stir @ 5 min.       @  30 min.       @  50 min.
75 min. rest to  149F             Iodine test
2 Gal.  water boiling to mash out  166 F 5 min.
Sparge continuous 3.5Gal.  water collected ~7.25 Gal. wort
Boil  time 60 min.
Hops     1 oz. @ 15 min.
1 oz  @  end
O.G.   1.054        F.G.  1.012           13.5/3 Plato           22 IBU’s
Rest  20 min. chill to fermenter-oxygenate-pitch @   70F
Yeast    two XL 1084 Irish Ale
Blow-off pops by

Rack Secondary  7-10 days when ready___________________
Put in fridge   7-10 days later as beer clears_________________
Keg  after 3 weeks_________________________________% ABV
Notes  ______________________________________________


Extra Stout (all grain) 5 gal. yield

12.5 #  Maris Otter malt
.5 #   Victory malt
.5 #   Crystal 80  malt
1.0 #   Crystal – Dark – Durst  90 L
.5 #   Black Patent malt
9 oz.  Roast Barley
.5 #   Flaked Barley
2  oz.  Glacier pellets   5 %  AA

Additives:  1 TBS. pH stabilizer –  adjust water to alkaline
1 tsp. yeast nutrient  – 1 tsp. Irish Moss to boil
Mash  5 gal.  41 oz.  water at 165F in tun add grains to 154F
Stir @ 5 min.         @ 30 min.         @ 50 min.
75  min. rest to 152-150F          Iodine test
2 gal.  boiling water  mash-out at 166F 5 min.
Sparge  continuous  3.5 gal.  water collect 7.5 gal. wort
Boil   90 min.
Hops    First addition              1 oz  @ 45 min
Second                              1 oz   @ 60 min
O.G.      1.066      F.G. 1.020          Plato  16.5/5            28  IBU’s
Rest 20 min.-chill to fermenter – oxygenate  Pitch @  64F
Yeast  two XL1728 Scottish Ale smak paks
Fermentation    Blow-off pops by
Rack to Secondary after 10 days ___________________________
Put in fridge 7 days later _________________________________
Keg after 7 days_______________________
Notes _______________________________________________



As winter is approaching, the weather here in northwestern NJ has already turned cold. Brewing beer outdoors means we are dependent on fair weather. That means no precipitation or blustery wind gusts. We can deal with the cold. The frigid temperatures don’t have to stop the carboys from being filled, it just creates a new set of challenges that can be overcome. Don’t let the thought of winter discourage you. Just as you snowshoe, ski, and snowboard being prepared will always get you through the toughest tasks. I made a Pale Ale last week on a day the temps hovered below freezing. It worked out great and I’m happy I did it.
Watching the weather report is the first step. Pick the right day where the temps will be within reason with light to no wind. Even if the day starts out below 32 F a lot of times the sun comes out and it warms up a bit.
As in every batch, the night before gather all your equipment and measure out the water needed to have them ready for the morning. This time of year it’s a good idea the drain the garden hose and keep it in the garage so it’s not frozen when you need it. That way in the morning you hook it up when you’re ready to go. If it’s really cold you’ll have to set the nozzle to let the water run slowly to prevent it from freezing. I remember one year it read 18F on the speedometer and I had to turn up the trickle because it was making an icicle that clogged the flow.
There are ways to cheat Mother Nature and it’s called Outdoor/Indoor brewing. I don’t have a HERMES or RIMS set up so it’s “gorilla” (credit Jeff Levine) brewing here at Wildcat. Once I dough in with the mash tun cooler I bring it inside where it’s warmer so the rest temp doesn’t drop dramatically as it would do outdoors. I heat up the mash-out water on the kitchen stove, stir it in the tun then bring it back outside. Vorlauf then sparge right into the kettle for the boil. You can go inside to warm up, oh I mean to record your notes, weigh out the hops, or spoon out any additives.
It takes less time and water to chill the wort in the winter so keep an eye on the temperature. If the fermenter has been sitting outside for a while it too will be colder than usual. Make the proper adjustments.
By the time you pitch the yeast, it is later in the day and probably getting colder. Have some buckets of warm water for the cleaner and sanitizer. That will help out on the hands. You could use dishwashing gloves. A hot water hose outside would be a blessing for the cleanup.
Always remember safety is a priority. Freezing temps mean icy patios and deck stairs. Use caution and be aware! Have fun and please let me know how it worked out.

What’s in Your Water?

Brewing water chemistry has a direct effect on the quality of beer you produce. There are many articles and even books on the subject and it seems surprising that some brewers pay little attention to it. By following some guidelines your homebrews will tend to improve as you tune in on the subtle differences that electrolyte adjustment can make.
All natural waters have minerals and gases dissolved in it and these can vary by source and locale. The extent and degree of these compounds determine the overall quality and hardness of water. Beer is produced all over the world and certain styles have emerged by combining native water and the locally used malts. The classic example is Burton Ales where very hard water produces an exquisite character beer.
Using this knowledge one can duplicate a certain style by reviewing the water analysis of the region where the beer is produced, then try to duplicate it.
Most homebrewers use tap water which is most likely chlorinated. It is necessary to remove the chlorine by charcoal filtering or boiling. Boiling also serves to remove alkalinity. One could always start with distilled water and make the proper additions to boost the Calcium, carbonates and sulfates to the desired levels needed to match the style.
In my area the tap water has a Total Hardness of 182 mg/l as CaCo3 so it is perfect for all types of ales that call for the addition of darker malts. I remember a few years back when I tried a Stout at a brewpub and the beer had little to no head. I questioned the brewer if he checked out the analysis of the water he was using and suggested a higher carbonate level would balance out the acidity of the darker malts. Awhile later, I returned and the Stout had a nice lasting head.
When brewing ales that range from amber to dark I use my tap water for the mash. A carbon activated filter from a home center comes in handy to remove any sediment and chlorine. I always use a tablespoon of 5.2ph Stabilizer in the mash as a buffer. Depending on the style I might add some Gypsum or Calcium Chloride.
I found a spring well not far from my house that I tested and found it to have a low hardness level. I always use this water for the sparge or when I’m using lighter malts in the mash. Commercially sold spring waters sometimes have the electrolytes listed on the labels. The brewer would have a base water to start out with, make additions or if it is soft enough use it in the sparge.
Check with your town to see if you can get a copy of the water analysis report and again use it for a basis of additions you feel appropriate.
Read about the effects that bicarbonates etc. have on hop utilization and final flavors of beer. The late Greg Noonan wrote an excellent book on brewing water chemistry that is considered to have had a great impact on the brewing process worldwide. Your beers will improve as you make subtle adjustments, starting with the water.